Archive for the ‘Photo Shooting’ Category

Need Help with Binocular Camera

January 18, 2008

by Carl Farley for Mike Bowers . . .

I’ve recently picked up a BinoCam Binocular Camera, and for some reason cannot seem to get the thing to download pics that I take.  The camera seems to shut down before I can activate a  download.  Just wondering if you’ve had some experience with these cameras?  I went by Wolf Camera Store but the Tech said that he did not know anything about these type digital cameras that are intended for Bird Watching and long distance pics.

Any help would be appreciated as I did not locate much over the Internet.

Taking Photos with an Infrared Camera…how to increase IR light?

November 2, 2007

by Carl Farley for Bryan Edmonson . . .

I have a budget camera with infrared but it will only film objects about 2-4 feet away, in complete darkness.Do you know how I can find out more about Infrared light sources (like a separate IR projection lamp) . I would illuminate with high IR light levels, so as to be able to see film and clearly see a whole room in complete darkness. Should I Google, Wikipedia? Can you suggest a newsgroup? What would you suggest? I value the opinions of your SIG members. Thanks.

How to Shoot a Polar Bear in the Snow? . . . this is not a joke!

August 30, 2007

One of our members is going far up north in Canada soon and wants to bring back some great photos of polar bears. But, everything is white except the nose, eyes, etc.!

Does anybody have any experience with this or have any suggestions to offer?

I also suggested that they send me some photos to post on this blog so we can all take a crack at making them look better with our software, like we did with the Christmas tree/grandkids picture earlier.

Keep watching this blog post as we’ll all learn from this one! 

Presentation on Camera RAW Format . . . What is it?

August 26, 2007

By Carl Farley for Guy Thibodau . . .

The presentation on the RAW format, although excellent from a technical standpoint, was a great overkill and actually presented a lot of misinformation on its value for the average digital camera user. About the only time it would be useful to me would be when I made such a gross error in exposure that I found it necessary to recover an image which even when recovered would be extremely poor at best. I’ve had little trouble getting an image which pleases me using any of a number of image enhancement programs which correct color balance, brightness, contrast, levels and hue/saturation, etc. The other problem with the raw format is that the file size is greater than 10 megapixels, more than ten times as much as a good high resolution JPEG image.

The best part of the presentation was alerting the user about the value of a gray card for exposure and color temperature (balance) corrections.

Going back to basics, what most people desire is an image of something they wished to view, keep, or share with someone else. The limiting factor on image quality is the resolution of the lens used by the camera. You could have a terepixel chip to save the image, but who cares if it was a very high quality lousy image.

As many have discussed, the camera image never represents the actual colors (shades and hues) represented by the existing lighting conditions. I can’t remember an image I’ve taken at any of the many JPEG formats that I couldn’t make more pleasing to me by some form of image manipulation. My current cameras, a medium priced Kodak camera suitable for all but the advanced amateurs or professionals, have 7.1 megapixel and an 8.2 megapixel Olympus Prosumer camera with an excellent lens. “Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder”.

Likewise, although the eye is a remarkable photographic instrument, unless you are a hawkeye, there is no way you can distinguish more than perhaps 20 shades and I’m not too sure how many colors and hues you can distinguish. A RAW image is useful for nit picking magazine editors who probably airbrushed the image or did some other artistic enhancement.

If you enhance an image with Picasa2 it only saves the algorithm instructions to enhance the image. The original image is always retained so it is also lossless. The basic problem with Picasa2 is that it does lousy color corrections and can’t clone burn or dodge parts of the image.

The newest version of Irfanview 4.0 is also a freebee. It also does a lot of image enhancements and corrections and file manipulations. Another good program to enhance small images is Genuine Fractals. It can convert a smaller image (megapixels) to a much larger image (megapixels). It does this by some algorithm which interpolates the data between the pixels in the smaller image and expands it to a larger image. The cheap version limits the file you can work on. The full version allows working with larger files.

Perhaps, the best way to judge your camera’s capability is to go to dpreview.com and see if it is on the list which has been evaluated. Usually there are many pictures taken under different situations, lens resolution charts and almost every possible type of data an advanced amateur or professional would want.

How does MP (megapixels) Resolution Relate to MB (megabyte) File Size?

August 20, 2007

At Saturday’s Digital Photography SIG meeting, we got to discussing this subject and I thought I’d post it up so the essence is captured for all the newbies to benefit from since it’s so important and basic.

On my 5 MP Sony camera:

o I can take (color) photos that capture (e.g.)  2592 pixels wide and 1944 pixels high.

o So, 2592 x 1944 = 5.04 MP camera.

o Now, each (color) pixel contains 24 bits of information (R = 8 bits, G = 8 bits, B = 8 bits). This would be one of 16.8 MM unique colors! (Forget the 24 bits if it’s a black and white photo.)

o So, the camera has to deal with 2592 x 1944 x 24 = 120.9 Mbits of information in each photo.

o Or, 120.9/8 = 15.1 MBytes of information.

o With a Fine Quality-JPEG setting, my camera records a photo file size of about 1.9 MB. (The photo usually looks great at this setting. However, I don’t know which one of the 12 JPEG levels the Fine Quality setting equates to. Maybe, #12?)

o Hence, the file compression is (15.1 – 1.9)/15.1 x 100 = 87.4 % (!)

o Where did these 87.4% of (missing) pixels go when the file was recorded? Into a math formula that has a way of (sort of) remembering all this when the photo file is opened up later because (most) all this information is used all over again when we look at the photo. (Remember that the poorer the quality setting, the more the compression and the more the data is lost on the round trip on the closing-opening step. This is why the JPEG format is called a “lossy” format.)

o Some situations where you can use this information are: how many photos can your hard drive (or, memory stick) hold and what’s the trade-off between resolution-quality-file size.  

Here’s a hot link to the web if you want to explore this further:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us&q=megapixels+megabytes&btnG=Search

Maybe some of our more experienced folks can clean this up as we start to comment on it. I thought this subject was important enough that it should be posted for all to see and learn from. 

Kodak Z-712-IS Camera on Sale at Office Depot Now

August 15, 2007

By Carl Farley for Guy Thibodaux, SIG member . . .

Office Depot has the Kodak camera I talked about at the last meeting on sale for $249.00 with a $30.00 gift card for other supplies. It has all the bells and whistles anyone could want – image stabilization, both automatic modes for the novice and optional settings for the advanced photographer. It also takes good movies 640×48 resolution at 30 frames per second and can make decisions about aperture, shutter speed and ASA ratings to optimize the picture.  It’s a great buy. Only thing missing is a hot shoe.

Member Needs Help and Comments Before Buying New Camera

August 9, 2007

By Carl Farley for Dennis Doherty, SIG member . . .

Your HAL-PC digital camera blog was very interesting and food for thought.  Regarding the digital zoom – I’ve had good luck with mine on my Canon A40 but makes sense to “enlarge” on computer to avoid hand shake.

As you know I’m in the market for a $150-$250 camera and think I’ve found a good fit. 

It’s the Canon PS A570 IS. Has all features I think are important for a not-real-serious photographer like myself, including IS, 4X optical zoom, 2.5 LCD screen that lights up to let you know what settings you’re at, 7.1 megapixel, up to 1600 ISO, AA batteries. Not a mini size but can easily fit in your pocket and the Canon name which I think has the greatest lenses.

Any comments?

Need Help Buying a Low-End (Cheap) Digital Camera

August 6, 2007

Chris Read asks . . .

I am in the market for a low end digital camera.  I looked at one at
Walmart for less than $100 that has a 3x optical zoom lense an a 5 x
digital zoom.  My old one has just a digital zoom.  How do the optical
and digital work together?  Does one first use the optical and then go
for the digital of more is desired?  Naturally I will use our shopbot
skills to get the lowest price once I “zoom in” on the desired model.  I
casually considered the used market, but for less than $100 bucks with
warrenty I probably would not bother.

Canon Digital Rebel Cameras – Dave Hansen’s presentation

January 19, 2007

This line of cameras has been wildly popular over the past few years and Dave is going to tell us all about his Rebel XT on Saturday, Jan. 20th – I hope you can make it. Heck, maybe I should have bought one rather than my Sony DSC-H1. Guess I was too cheap!

If you’ve got any questions or comments on Dave’s presentation (or, anything digital photography), just add them below and we’ll kick it around. I’ll tell Dave to watch this blog so he can have some fun, too.